Ball Python Care Guide
- Zowie Auger
- Sep 6
- 12 min read
Ball Pythons are fantastic snakes that have gained popularity due to their docile nature and handleability. Though they may not be the most difficult snake to care for, we understand that learning how to properly care for one can still be intimidating and confusing with all of the information out there! This guide will cover everything you need to know, but in a simple beginner friendly way!
If you have further questions don't hesitate to reach out to Her-petology Reptile shows on Facebook or email Herpetology.shows@gmail.com.
Some of the links/discount codes within this care guide are affiliate links/codes, meaning if you use them for your purchase, we make a small commission.
About Ball Pythons
Ball Pythons (Python regius) are medium sized, crepuscular snakes that come from the semi-arid grasslands, forests, and agricultural areas of Western and Central Africa. Though you will often hear them referred to as terrestrial, they are actually more so a semi-arboreal species!
They are a sexually dimorphic species, meaning there is a noticeable difference between males and females. On average, males will achieve lengths of 3' - 4', while females can achieve lengths of 3' - 5', and in rare cases even 6'.
It is important to note that with proper care, they can live on average for 15 to 30 years. This is a long time to commit to a pet, and it's important to provide a suitable environment and proper diet to allow them to flourish and reach these older ages.
Shopping List
It's very important to have your snake's new home and supplies all set up and ready prior to brining them home. Here’s a shopping list that covers your gecko's basic needs (click each item to jump ahead to that section):
Enclosure: A front opening enclosure (120 gallons minimum)
Spring Water or Reptisafe water conditioner
Having these items ready will help you be well prepared for your new pet!
Picking your Enclosure
Choosing the right enclosure is essential for your ball python's happiness and health. You want to avoid glass tanks, similar in style to that of fish tanks. Larger sizes can work, however opting for a front opening tank that allows you to interact with your ball python straight on as opposed to from above will lessen their stress and create a better relationship between you and your snake. It will also make it easier to access the interior of your enclosure and feed.
We recommend a 120 gallon minimum size (48" x 24" x 24") for ball pythons, but if you have the means to go larger, don't hesitate to do so!
Below are some brands that we have experience using and recommend! (Click the photos to visit the website)
Least Expensive & Lightweight
Dubia.com is a Her-petology Sponsor, and creates affordable lightweight enclosures out of thin PVC panels. We recommend the 48x24x24 model.
Heavy Duty and Partial Glass with sliding doors
Phailozoo Enclosures come with heavy duty glass sides and sliding doors. They are available in pink, green, blue, black, and purple. We recommend the 120 gallon (48x24x24) size.
Use our code "zowie10" to save 10% on your enclosure purchase.
Most expensive, premium quality, full PVC enclosure
Kages creates high quality meant to last PVC enclosures with heavy duty sliding glass doors. We recommend their 4x2x2 size (which comes in both white or black pvc). All enclosures ship free in 10 days or less.
There are many options for customization based on how you would like to set up your heating and lighting. If you need help with this, reach out to me and I'll be happy to help!
Use our code "zareptiles" to save $50 on your purchase.
Choosing the Right Substrate
The substrate for your ball python is vital for its health and well-being. Here are the main substrate options:
Avoid: Reptile carpets, aspen, pine or cedar based substrates
Recommended Options:
Easiest -
Reptichip (Breeder block or 36 quart Babychip)
Cost Effective -
DIY mix of 80% organic topsoil and Reptisoil and 20% sand (Pre-washed, silica-free play sand, Jurassic Reptile Substrate, or Zoo Med ReptiSand) and then mix in a little bit of excavator clay.
Advanced -
Terra Firma Bioactive Kit (for those wanting a bioactive set up) - Click here to save $10 on your order
Pick a substrate that is going to keep your ball python comfortable, while also being something you are a comfortable with. In fact, the easiest option (Reptichip) is my personal favorite!
Enrichment for Your Ball Python
Environmental enrichment is essential for keeping your ball python mentally stimulated and physically active. You'll want several hiding spots - 3 minimum (warm side, cool side, and one in the middle, but the more hides and clutter, the more comfortable your snake will be! We love to use cork rounds as hides and commercial rock cave reptile hides.
Along with hiding spots, add climbing structures using clean branches, ghost wood, and mopani wood. This encourages exploration and exercise, which are beneficial for their overall health. Make sure that any wood from outside is a reptile safe hard wood, and well cleaned prior to use.
If you have a bit of a green thumb, explore reptile safe plants if you are using a soil substrate to really bring your enclosure to life! Reptile safe plants can be found at The BioDude (click for $10 off) and Josh's Frogs.
Heating and Lighting
Being cold blooded (or ectothermic), Ball Pythons rely on outside sources of heat to keep them warm. We recommend providing heat by utilizing a deep heat projector or daytime basking bulb. These sources provide the most natural, but also the most beneficial source of heat for reptiles. While heat mats can act as bonus heat if you need a little extra warmth, they are not an adequate sole source of heat.
Temperatures
Aim for ...
A warm side temperature in the mid to high 80's (roughly 85-90°F)
A cooler side in the 70's (roughly 72-80°F).
A basking spot that reaches mid 90's to low 100's (roughly 95-105°F).
This is where your ball python will go to absorb the highest amount of heat and will be the area directly below your basking bulb. Placing a rock, cork, or black basking hide under this light will create an awesome and much warmer basking area, without jeopardizing your overall temperatures.
At night time, a drop in temperature is natural and healthy, however for ball pythons that night time drop should stay within the 70's (70-79°F)
These heat gradients are vital for your ball python to be able to thermoregulate and control its body temperature properly. You can measure your surface temperatures using an infrared temperature gun. This is especially helpful for checking the temperature of your basking area.
For general observation of your temperatures, we recommend a digital thermometer/hygrometer combo placed on the warm and the cool side of your enclosure, at the level where your ball python will be hanging out. Our personal preference is the Bluetooth Govee thermometer hygrometer combos, because not only can you do a quick check by looking in your enclosure, but you can also when on your geckos temperatures and humidity from your phone!
You want to avoid the commercial reptile plastic thermometers and hygrometers that are sold in Pet stores. They are known for being inaccurate, but also encourage you to place them up on the glass, which does not let you know what temperatures and humidity levels your gecko is experiencing at ground level.
Our Recommended Heating
Your wattage will depend on many factors, such as your set up, the ambient temperature of your house, the temperatures you are trying to reach, etc., so it may take some trial and error to find the perfect wattage for your set up, but for the recommended enclosures listed above, 75 watts is a great place to start! Also it is important to provide your ball python with a day and night cycle. Heat that produces visible light should be shut off at night so the snake can have darkness.
Here's what we recommend:
Arcadia Deep Heat Projector (80 watt) - This source of heat does not produce light. It should only be used with a thermostat to ensure it will not produce too much heat for your reptile. It is an excellent source if you find yourself needing heat at night.
Arcadia Golden Sun Halogen (75 watt)
Arcadia Golden Sun Basking Flood (75 watt)
Zoo Med Repti basking Spot Lamp (75 watt)
These can be placed in a ceramic lamp rated for the wattage bulb you are using. Some of them, such as this Flukers lamp, have built in dimmers to help you control your heat. If you find the perfect wattage to achieve the right temperatures for your setup, you can use any of the lamps without a built in dimmer. This is preferred as it will help with the lifespan and efficiency of your bulb.
UVB
While UVB lighting is not considered essential to a ball python's care, providing a low-level linear UVB can enhance the overall health of your snake, so we very strongly encourage it. Our go to recommendation is the Arcadia T5 6% 24" (24w). This bulb should overlap with your heat on the warm side, as it provides additional benefits that the snake would receive from the sun. Having it on the warm side will create a UVB gradient in addition to a temperature gradient.
There is an argument that ball pythons since ball pythons are not readily seen out during the day, that they won't benefit from UVB lighting, however, even nocturnal animals will do what we call cryptic basking. While they are hiding away sleeping, they will leave small parts of them exposed to be able to absorb the benefits from the sun (or in this case the lights you provide).
Maintaining Proper Humidity Levels
Even coming from the grasslands of Africa, Ball pythons do best with a mid to higher range of humidity, generally between 60%-80% during the day, with it rising even higher at night.
Too low of humidity can result in health concerns, such as respiratory problems and trouble shedding. You can easily monitor the humidity in your enclosure using the Bluetooth thermometer/hygrometer monitor mentioned above.
To maintain the correct humidity:
If you need to raise it: Mist in the morning/evening, use a thicker layer of substrate, create a humid hide with moistened sphagnum moss, add live plants/create a bioactive set up.
If you need to lower the humidity: make sure you have plenty of ventilation
Feeding Your Ball Python
Ball Pythons are carnivores, meaning they need animal protein to thrive. We primarily feed Frozen thawed Rats and Quail. Avoid feeding live prey, this creates unnecessary stress for your snake and its prey, and puts your snake at risk of injury. We've heard good things about Cold Blooded Cafe and Perfect Prey. Buying frozen will also allow you to buy in bulk, saving you money and making sure you always have food on hand.
What size should you feed? A common rule of thumb is to offer whole prey that is slightly larger than the thickest part of your snakes body. Ideally, you should only be feeding one prey item each feeding. Still not sure? Go with prey that is 10-15% of your snakes body weight.
How often should you feed? The best way to determine this is to pay attention to your snakes body condition and weight. Until they are a full grown adult, you should see an increase in their weight each month. You don't however can an obese snake. If your python starts to have rolls and look round or like a loaf of bread, you know you are feeding too often.
Younger snakes will need to eat weekly, and then can back off in frequency as they grow to every 7-14 days. As adults they could even eat every 2-3 weeks depending on their size. Check out this ball python feeding chart for a very helpful break down to help you.
You may hear discussion on whether you should remove your snake from it's home for feeding time. Doing this puts your snake at risk of regurgitation and added stress. Always feed inside of your enclosure. If you are worried about your snake confusing handling time with feeding time, you can implement training into your handling sessions. Tap training is our go to - tap your snake with a paper towel tube to let them know it's a handling day. If you are feeding, then do not tap them. Alternatively, you could also spray them down before you pick them up instead of tapping.
You should allow your snake to digest unbothered for 48 hours after feeding. This means no handling! :)
Preparing Frozen Prey
It's very important that your frozen food is warmed up properly prior to feeding it to your ball python. My personal method is to leave them in the fridge overnight to thaw gradually, and then letting them soak in warm/hot water prior to feeding time to bring them up to a lively temperature.
My Ball Python Isn't Eating?!
One of the biggest warnings that come with ball pythons is that it's not uncommon for them to go on a "food strike" now and then. Though this can be stressful for you as the keeper, it is usually nothing to worry about. Snakes can go a while without food and be totally fine! As long as you are tracking their weight and making note of any changes in behavior, you should just continue on as scheduled. If your snake starts acting differently or rapidly losing weight, seek out veterinary care.
Water
It is important to provide a water dish for your ball python to drink from. Make sure to keep the dish clean and change the water, so there is always fresh drinking water available. We recommend using spring water or tap water treated with a reptile safe water conditioner like Reptisafe.
Handling
Handling a pet Ball python requires care and attention to ensure both the snake's safety and your own. Here are some essential tips for safely handling your python:
Wash your hands before and after
Approach slowly and calmly. Sudden and quick movements can startle them.
When picking up your ball python, always pick up by the middle of their body, and do it with confidence. Never pick them up by the head or the tail.
Support their body with both hands. They may try to explore and slither. Keep your grip loose to allow them to move through your hands. Do not tighten your grip and squeeze them.
Limit Handling Time and Keep handling sessions short, especially when your snake is new. Aim for a couple minutes at first and gradually work up to 10-15 minutes over time to avoid overwhelming them.
Avoid letting your snake wrap around your neck. Though they won't be actively trying to arm anyone, they don't know their own strength, and it's not a very safe handling practice.
Pay attention to your snake's body language. If they appear stressed, try to return them to their habitat calmly. Signs of stress include open mouth breathing, hissing, twitchy jerky movements, no tongue flicking, creating an "S" shape (striking post), being highly reactive to movement and touch, etc.
Regular, gentle handling can help your ball python become more comfortable with you. Gradually increase the frequency of handling sessions as they adjust to your presence.
These tips are best done with a front opening set up. Being able to interact with your snake from the front versus coming from above will help make them more comfortable.
First Aid Tips for Your Snake
Even with great care, health issues can happen. Being prepared for minor emergencies is always a good idea.
Dealing with Stuck Sheds
Shedding troubles are among the top issues keepers tend to face. With proper husbandry, your chances of shedding issues should decrease however. You'll know your snake is getting ready to shed if they look paler than normal and their eyes look blue (we call this being in "blue"). If all goes well, you should be left with a nice fresh shed a week or two after seeing them go in blue.
If your snake has stuck shed, here’s how to help:
Double check your humidity/humid hide
Humid Box Method: Place a warm wet hand towel in a Tupperware container. Even better if that container can be placed on a heat mat (controlled by a thermostat set to 85 degrees). Place the snake inside once the heat is set and humidity has built and cover the Tupperware to make it dark for the snake. This will reduce stress. After no more than 1 hour, return the snake to its enclosure. The remainder of the shed should come off on its' own. If not, repeat the process after 24 hours.
Respiratory Infections
Another common issue among reptiles are respiratory infections (these are like sinus infections in humans). If your snake acts lethargic, breaths with it's mouth open, sounds wheezy, or has bubbly saliva, these are some common signs of RI. It usually stems from incorrect humidity, temperatures, or an unsanitary environment. Double check all aspects of your care and seek out a veterinarian immediately for medication.
Being prepared to handle medical emergencies and building a relationship with a vet can make a significant difference for your pet's health. For a list of our recommended exotic vets, reach out to us on Social media or email Herpetology.shows@gmail.com.
Conclusion
Taking care of a ball python may seem challenging at first, but with some preparation and research, you can create an awesome habitat for your new snake! Remember, each snake has its' own unique personality and preferences, so it may take some time to understand your pet. If you need any assistance or have any questions, don't hesitate to reach out!
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