Leopard Gecko Care Guide
- Zowie Auger
- May 2
- 13 min read
Leopard geckos are fantastic reptiles that have gained popularity due to their friendly nature and pretty simple care requirements. Though they may not be the most difficult reptile to care for, we understand that learning how to properly care for one can still be intimidating and confusing with all of the information out there! This guide will cover everything you need to know, but in a simple beginner friendly way!
If you have further questions don't hesitate to reach out to Her-petology Reptile shows on Facebook or email Herpetology.shows@gmail.com.
Some of the links/discount codes within this care guide are affiliate links/codes, meaning if you use them for your purchase, we make a small commission.
About Leopard Geckos
Leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius) are small, crepuscular ground dwelling lizards that come from the arid semi-desert regions of Afghanistan, Pakistan, and India. It's important to note that desert doesn't always mean an endless sandy habitat. Many deserts are actually very rocky!
They are well known for their bright yellow color and unique spotted skin, hence why they are referred to as Leopard geckos. They grow to about 7-10" in length and are perfect for new keepers, because of their hardy nature and lower maintenance requirements compared to other reptiles.
It is important to note that with proper care, they can live on average for 15 to 20+ years. This is a long time to commit to a pet, and it's important to be providing a suitable environment and a balanced diet to allow them to flourish and reach these older ages.
Shopping List
It's very important to have your gecko's new home and supplies all set up and ready prior to brining them home. Here’s a shopping list that covers your gecko's basic needs (click each item to jump ahead to that section):
Enclosure: A front opening enclosure (40-50 gallons minimum)
Lighting: Arcadia Shade Dweller UVB (optional but beneficial)
Feeding Dish: something bugs can't escape out of
Spring Water or Reptisafe water conditioner
Having these items ready will help you be well prepared for your new pet!
Picking your Enclosure
Choosing the right enclosure is essential for your leopard gecko's happiness and health. You want to avoid glass tanks, similar in style to that of fish tanks. Larger sizes can work, however opting for a front opening tank that allows you to interact with your gecko straight on as opposed to from above will lessen their stress and create a better relationship between you and your gecko. It will also make it easier to access the interior of your enclosure.
We recommend a 40-50 gallon minimum size (36"x18"x 18") for leopard geckos, but if you have the means to go larger, don't hesitate to do so! Leopard geckos are very curious by nature and will explore the habitat you create for them!
Below are some brands that we have experience using and recommend! (Click the photos to visit the website)
Least Expensive & Lightweight
Dubia.com is a Her-petology Sponsor, and creates affordable lightweight enclosures out of thin PVC panels. We recommend the 36x18x18 model.
Heavy Duty and Partial Glass with sliding doors
Phailozoo Enclosures come with heavy duty glass sides and sliding doors. They are available in pink, green, blue, black, and purple. We recommend the 50 gallon (36x18x18) size.
Use our code "zowie10" to save 10% on your enclosure purchase.
Heavy Duty and Full Glass with swing doors
Reptizoo enclosures are excellent quality and provide swing doors for a full front opening, as opposed to the sliding doors that the other companies have. We recommend the 36x18x18
Most expensive, premium quality, full pvc enclosure
Kages creates high quality meant to last PVC enclosures with heavy duty sliding glass doors. We recommend their 36x24x18 size (which comes in both white or black pvc), which gives your gecko more floor space to explore. All enclosures ship free in 10 days or less.
We recommend customizing your enclosure to have a left and right screen, no side vents, and no belly heat.
Use our code "zareptiles" to save $50 on your purchase.
Choosing the Right Substrate
The substrate for your leopard gecko is vital for its health and well-being. Here are the main substrate options:
Avoid: Reptile carpets, sand mats, calcium sand, ground walnut shell
Basic Options: Paper towel, slate tile, or black non absorbent terrarium liner
Naturalistic Options:
Lugarti Natural Reptile Bedding (estimating about 20 quarts)
Biodude Terra Sahara (use this link to save $10)
DIY mix of equal parts organic topsoil and sand (Pre-washed, silica-free play sand, Jurassic Reptile Substrate, or Zoo Med ReptiSand) and then mix in a little bit of excavator clay.
Pick a substrate that is going to keep your gecko comfortable, while also being something you are a comfortable with. You can absolutely start easy with one of the ok substrate options and then move into a loose and more natural option as you get more comfortable caring for your gecko.
A note about loose substrate impaction
It has been said for ages that loose substrate (sand in particular) will cause impaction in leopard geckos. While some substrates, such as calcium sand, will likely cause issues, a loose substrate consisting of the items listed in our better category are natural and replicate a leopard geckos natural environment. What causes impaction is not the loose substrate, but actually issues within the overall care of the gecko - for example improper temperatures. If you are meeting the care requirements for your leopard gecko, proper loose substrates are fine to use with healthy leopard geckos. With that being said, loose substrates that do not replicate a leopard geckos natural environment, should not be used.
Enrichment for Your Gecko
Environmental enrichment is essential for keeping your leopard gecko mentally stimulated and physically active. You'll want several hiding spots - 3 minimum (warm side, cool side, and one in the middle (we sometimes use this as a humid hide)), but the more hides and clutter, the more comfortable your leopard gecko will be! We love to use grapevine wood hides and commercial rock cave reptile hides.
Along with hiding spots, add climbing structures using clean branches, cholla wood, and grapevine wood. This encourages exploration and exercise, which are beneficial for their overall health. You can also use rocks to build rocky climbing structures to replicate their natural environment, but make sure they are well secured, so there is no risk of your gecko getting crushed. If you have loose substrate, rocks should be placed on the bottom of the enclosure and then surrounded by substrate, not placed on top of the substrate where the gecko could potentially get underneath the rock.
If you have a bit of a green thumb, explore reptile safe succulents if you are using loose substrate to really bring your enclosure to life! Reptile safe plants can be found at The BioDude (click for $10 off) and Josh's Frogs.
Heating and Lighting
Being cold blooded (or ectothermic), Leopard geckos rely on outside sources of heat to keep them warm. We recommend providing heat by utilizing a deep heat projector or daytime basking bulb. These sources provide the most natural, but also the most beneficial source of heat for reptiles. While heat mats can act as bonus heat if you need a little extra warmth, they are not an adequate sole source of heat.
Temperatures
Aim for ...
A warm side temperature in the low 90's (roughly 90-92°F)
A cooler side in the low to mid 70's (roughly 70-78°F).
A basking spot that reaches mid to high 90's (roughly 92-98°F).
This is where you leopard gecko will go to absorb the highest amount of heat and will be the area directly below your basking bulb. Placing a rock or piece of slate under this light will create an awesome and much warmer basking area, without jeopardizing your overall temperatures.
At night time, a drop in temperature is natural and healthy! Leopard geckos can handle temperatures into the 60's during the night. If your home is getting below 65°F at night, we recommend adding a source of night time heat to ensure your enclosure doesn't get too cold).
These heat gradients are vital for your leopard gecko to be able to thermoregulate and control its body temperature properly. You can measure your surface temperatures using an infrared temperature gun. This is especially helpful for checking the temperature of your basking area.
For general observation of your temperatures, we recommend a digital thermometer/hygrometer combo placed on the warm and the cool side of your enclosure, at the level where your gecko will be hanging out. Our personal preference is the Bluetooth Govee thermometer hygrometer combos, because not only can you do a quick check by looking in your enclosure, but you can also when on your geckos temperatures and humidity from your phone!
You want to avoid the commercial reptile plastic thermometers and hygrometers that are sold in Pet stores. They are known for being inaccurate, but also encourage you to place them up on the glass, which does not let you know what temperatures and humidity levels your gecko is experiencing at ground level.
Our Recommended Heating
Your wattage will depend on many factors, such as your set up, the ambient temperature of your house, the temperatures you are trying to reach, etc., so it may take some trial and error to find the perfect wattage for your set up, but for the recommended enclosures listed above, 50 watts is a great place to start! Also it is important to provide your gecko with a day and night cycle. Heat that produces visible light should be shut off at night so the gecko can have darkness.
Here's what we recommend:
Arcadia Deep Heat Projector (50 watt) - This source of heat does not produce light. It should only be used with a thermostat to ensure it will not produce too much heat for your reptile. It is an excellent source if you find yourself needing heat at night.
Arcadia Golden Sun Halogen (50 watt)
Arcadia Golden Sun Basking Flood (50 watt)
These can be placed in a ceramic lamp rated for the wattage bulb you are using. Some of them, such as this Flukers lamp, have built in dimmers to help you control your heat. If you find the perfect wattage to achieve the right temperatures for your setup, you can use any of the lamps without a built in dimmer. This is preferred as it will help with the lifespan and efficiency of your bulb.
UVB
While UVB lighting is not considered essential to a leopard geckos care, providing a low-level linear UVB can enhance the overall health of your gecko, so we very strongly encourage it. Our go to recommendation is the Arcadia T5 7% Shade Dweller 12" (8w). This bulb should overlap with your heat on the warm side, as it provides additional benefits that the gecko would receive from the sun. Having it on the warm side will create a UVB gradient in addition to a temperature gradient.
Maintaining Proper Humidity Levels
Leopard geckos thrive in a low humidity environment, generally between 30%-40%. High humidity can result in health concerns, such as respiratory problems. Humidity does play an important roll in shedding though! Too low of humidity can cause a leopard gecko to have difficulty shedding. It is important to provide an area with higher humidity, ranging from 70% - 80%, that the gecko can retreat to as needed. The best way to achieve this is to create a humid hide. This can be hide with damp sphagnum moss, a damp paper towel, or moistened (not saturated) substrate inside. It should be placed somewhere near the middle to cool side of the enclosure. You can easily track the humidity inside using a hygrometer with a probe that you can stick inside of the hide.
To maintain the correct humidity:
If you need to raise it: Lightly moisten the Substrate or Lightly mist as needed to raise the humidity temporarily, but avoid excessive moisture.
If you need to lower the humidity: make sure you have plenty of ventilation
Feeding Your Leopard Gecko
Leopard geckos are insectivores, meaning they need a varied diet of live insects. We primarily order our feeder insects from Dubia.com and Pangea Reptile.
Here are some nutritious choices:
Dubia Roaches: They are very easy to breed, so you can always have them on hand.
Crickets: One of the most popular feeder insects
Nutrigrubs (Black soldier fly larvae): a great source of calcium
Silkworms: costly, but low fat while being high in protein and calcium
Other tasty insects that can be mixed in as treats and to help provide a varied diet:
Mealworms: Can be stored in the fridge, but also are easy to breed
Hornworms: low in fat and a great source of hydration
Wax worms: high fat content and should only be fed as a treat
Small Superworms: These are generally large, so its important to makes sure you are ordering small.
Do not feed list:
Bugs from your backyard
Canned bugs
Insects should be gut loaded at least 24 hours prior to being fed to your gecko. Gut loading means giving the insects nutritious foods to eat, so that they can pass those nutrients on to your pet. You can do this by providing a commercial bug diet or by providing fresh food such as carrots and potatoes. Just make sure to replace the food, so it doesn't mold and get gross.
A common rule of thumb is to offer 2 bugs per 1 inch of your leopard gecko’s length, or however much they can eat in 15 minutes. What size bug should you feed? Insects should be no bigger than the space between your geckos eyes.
Babies and juveniles should be fed daily, young adults can be fed every other day to every 2-3 days, and mature adults can be fed a couple times a week. Keep an eye on your leopard geckos body condition to determine whether you should increase or decrease your days. Leopard geckos store fat in their tail, so a super fat tail could mean an overweight gecko.
Adding Supplements to Their Diet
To keep your leopard gecko healthy, it's important to provide dietary supplements. Calcium powder is essential for preventing metabolic bone disease and all it takes is a little dusting on your insects prior to every feeding. If you have a UVB light, you can get Calcium without D3. If you opt out of providing a UVB light, you want Calcium with D3.
Calcium Supplements we recommend if you don't have UVB:
Calcium Supplements we recommend if you have UVB:
You'll want to supplement with a multivitamin roughly once every other week (unless you are using Repashy calcium plus). Make sure your multivitamin contains vitamin A. Some multivitamin supplements we recommend are:
Supplements should be replaced after 3 months of being open, so we recommend buying the small containers.
Water
It is important to provide a water dish to your gecko to drink from. Make sure to keep the dish clean and change the water, so there is always fresh drinking water available. We recommend using spring water or tap water treated with a reptile safe water conditioner like Reptisafe.
Handling
Handling a pet leopard gecko requires care and attention to ensure both the gecko's safety and your own. Here are some essential tips for safely handling your leopard gecko:
Wash your hands before and after
Approach slowly and calmly. Sudden and quick movements can startle them.
When picking up your leopard gecko, either let them walk onto your hand or pick them up by sliding your hand under their belly. Never grab them from above - they see this as predator behavior.
Gently support their body with both hands. They may try to explore and walk/move quickly. Use your hands one in front of the other like a treadmill for your gecko. Refrain from forcibly holding them.
Limit Handling Time and Keep handling sessions short, especially when your gecko is new to being handled. Aim for a couple minutes at first and gradually work up to 10-15 minutes over time to avoid overwhelming them.
Never grab their tail. They can drop their tails as a defense mechanism, which is stressful and something you want to try and avoid.
Pay attention to your gecko's body language. If they appear stressed, try to return them to their habitat calmly. Signs of stress include tail twitching, hiding, attempting to escape, and chirping/squeaking.
Create a safe environment. Ensure the area where you are handling your gecko is safe and free from hazards. Avoid high surfaces where they could fall, and consider using a soft surface to cushion any accidental drops.
Regular, gentle handling can help your leopard gecko become more comfortable with you. Gradually increase the frequency of handling sessions as they adjust to your presence.
If your gecko isn't taking to handling very well there are some tips you can do to build trust with your gecko.
Hand feed your gecko using tongs
Sit quietly with your hand in the enclosure. This will allow the gecko to get used to your presence and realize you aren't a threat.
Let your gecko explore your hand inside of the enclosure where they can safely walk on and off as they please. You can even use tongs and food to help encourage your gecko to climb onto your hand.
These tips are best done with a front opening set up. Being able to interact with your gecko from the front versus coming from above will help make them more comfortable.
First Aid Tips for Your Gecko
Even with great care, health issues can happen. Being prepared for minor emergencies is always a good idea.
Dealing with Stuck Sheds
Shedding troubles are the number 1 issues leopard gecko keepers tend to face. With proper husbandry, your chances of shedding issues should decrease however. You'll know your gecko is getting ready to shed if they look paler than normal. If all goes well, you should very rarely see signs of shed, because as they pull their old skin off, they eat it!
If your gecko has stuck shed, especially around the toes or tail, you will want to help as this can lead to circulation being cut off in these areas, which can cause toes to fall off. Here’s how to help:
Double check your humidity/humid hide
Soaking Method: For stubborn cases, soak your gecko in a shallow dish of lukewarm water for about 15 minutes. Using a damp Q-tip you can gently encourage the shed to come off. Never force stuck skin to come off if it is not ready.
Humid Box Method: Place a warm wet washcloth or hand towel in a Tupperware container. Even better if that container can be placed on a heat mat (controlled by a thermostat set to 80 degrees). Place the gecko inside once the heat is set and humidity has built and cover the Tupperware to make it dark for the gecko. This will reduce stress. After 20 minutes remove the gecko from the tupperware and use fine tweezers or a damp qtip to try and help remove the stuck shed, again being careful not to force it off.
If these methods don't work on the first try, try again the following day. If you still continue to have trouble, seek out veterinary help or contact us for further guidance.
When to See a Vet
If your leopard gecko shows signs of illness, such as lethargy, loss of appetite, or abnormal behavior, it's best to consult a reptile veterinarian. Regular check-ups can help track your gecko’s health and prevent potential issues.
Being prepared to handle medical emergencies and building a relationship with a vet can make a significant difference for your pet's health. For a list of our recommended exotic vets, reach out to us on Social media or email Herpetology.shows@gmail.com.
Conclusion
Taking care of a leopard gecko may seem challenging at first, but with some preparation and research, you can create an awesome habitat for your new gecko! Remember, each gecko has its unique personality and preferences, so it may take some time to understand your pet. If you need any assistance or have any questions, don't hesitate to reach out!
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